After my post on Biting and our decision to use a more physical training method, I received a number of replies advocating each method. One of the more concise posts was from Kathy (aka Elsa_Mama on ICHC) so with her permission I will post it here.

I understand your frustration, but I still disagree with "physical" training. Can you look in your area for a clicker or positive trainer who could work more closely with you? If he is getting dangerous in his biting you may need a professional. Clickersolutions.com has LOTS of helpful hints and articles. They are written by well respected animal behaviorists. There is a whole section on "aggression" issues and dominance. There is also a Clicker Solutions Yahoo Group with a lot of professional trainers on it. They will only discuss positive training methods. How old is Samson? How long did he stay with his litter mates? How old was he when you got him? How big he is right now? When did he start his "bad" behaviors? Is there any time that he less exuberant? Does he walk on a leash? Can you take him on a good long walk and then work with him afterwards when he is more relaxed? Until then you may need to keep him on a leash so he cannot continue to reinforce his dominance.
For the free play biting issue - just do not pick up the Kong until Samson is sitting. I know it will interrupt the "play" bit it is necessary. Play may need to be less wild till he learns better. Trade him a treat or his food for the Kong. Then throw it again , etc. I had to persuade my son not to get too wild with our Siberian Husky, because he (the dog) wanted to play too rough. I told him that if he gets on the floor to play like a dog, then he can expect Bandit to treat him like he would a dog — which includes teeth. Some dogs you can wrestle — others not so much. My Springer will also sometimes make a grab for his ball as I go to take it, but he has a very soft mouth. Still, when he was younger I would not take the ball to throw it until he dropped it and if he made a move towards it as I went for it I just stood up. He learned not to lunge for the ball. If his teeth do touch skin your hubby or whoever should yip, immediately stand up and walk away. Play stops immediately.
For the jumping you may need to use some management. You cannot let him bite and tear your clothes. That by itself is rewarding to him. Use a leash to contain him. Tie the leash to something. If he sits quietly on the leash - go over and pet him. If he jumps wildly or cries, ignore him. He will figure it out pretty quickly. You can also step on the leash so he cannot jump up. With the kennel - only let him out when he is sitting quietly. He is going to give you a run for your money. Aussies are VERY smart and this is not always a good thing. You can inadvertently teach them something without meaning to and it is almost always something you would rather they would not do. I am not that familiar with Great Pyrs, but they are a herding/guardian breed — which pretty much guarantees an independent willful nature. He is still very young, I am sure you can work thru this with time, patience and consistency.
When he is biting does he break the skin? Does he hold on or it passing contact? I can only say that right now you have to manage him to keep him from having so much fun beating everybody up. Use the kennel, and a leash to keep him contained. Whenever he is calm, interact with him, praise him and treat him. The SECOND he gets out of control walk out of leash range or put in the kennel with as little emotion as possible. When he is in the kennel or on the leash ignore him completely unless he is being good. Do not talk to him or anything. It will be hard. You may see what is called extinction behavior — the bad behavior will get worse right before it improves. Any reward for the bad behavior, even yelling at him, will reinforce it.